First Stop: Warsaw (Warszawa)
Warsaw was my introduction to Poland when my husband and I traveled behind the Iron Curtain in the 1970’s. I fell in love with Old Town as I stood in wonder of how these stunning buildings were rebuilt brick by brick after the devastation of Hitler’s bombs. The story and film are housed in a small museum at the corner of the square and it made an indelible impression on me.
Today there are restaurants, shops, carriage rides and cafes that brighten the night.
I’ve spent a fair amount of time around Warsaw, fortunate to stay with my friend, Gosia who constantly schools me on Polish history and customs. I try to lap it all up til I am to my brim by the end of the day.
Our favorite restaurant on the square was the Gessler Restaurant, located in a basement space with signatures of notables all over the stucco walls. There were costumes and antiques decorating the rooms and the foods were authentic and delicious. Both Warsaw and Krakow have wonderful eateries and cafes below street level with archways built into the stone rooms.
There are interesting shops scattered along the narrow streets running from the historic square to the Royal Castle where elaborate furnishings have been re-installed after the plundering of war. You can find the craftsmanship of Kolbuszowa among the handsome wooden furniture pieces accented with inlaids and beautifully finished.
One of my favorite dolls, “Lala” came from a Warsaw shop and there was a wonderful lace curtain shop on our way to the Wedel Chocolatier. Wedel is known throughout the country, and sold in a store rebuilt identical to the original which suffered total destruction from the bombs of war. Clerks wear lace trimmed aprons and serve hot chocolate which you can enjoy in front of the fireplace or at the big windows looking out at the bustle of life.
On one visit we had lunch at the Blikle Cafe, also a rebuild and known to be a food supplier to the soldiers fighting hopelessly against the Germans, until the entire city ran out of food. Today you can enjoy scrumptious lunch in an art deco atmosphere while listening to American music from the war years. I was taken by all of it and sang along with the old recording, which tickled another patron, smiling at the American woman singing an American song in her city.
We heard that vintage music again on the day we visited the Uprising Museum, which was opened on July 31, 2004, marking the 60th anniversary of the uprising. - https://www.1944.pl/odwiedz-nas.html - You will see the American planes flown by brave pilots who knew their fuel would barely last until they flew over Warsaw, dropped bundles of food and hoped to make it back to English soil again. There are significant displays at every turn in this museum. It was a relief to sit in the reproduction vintage cafe to absorb all that had been presented, and be joyful that at last the Poles are allowed to tell their story about the fall of Warsaw-after being supressed by the Communist regime for so many years. The museum was created with some inspiration from the Smithsonian Museum of Washington D.C. using many interactive stations that help the stories come alive. Some powerful photos and exhibits as well as messages from Pope Paul and other notables give us a stark picture of how badly Poland was treated during negotions between Roosevelt and Stalin, while excluding Churchill as much as possible. And so the men, women and children of Warsaw fought until they could fight no more. Jews fought with Christians, young boy scouts risked their lives to carry messages, and there was enough spirit left at the end of it all to rebuild the city to the exact specification of the originals using paintings and photographs to duplicate what had been lost. I remember a partial iron crucifix on a wall - in the exact spot where the original hung - yet torn and bent.
There are stories connected to almost everything you see in Poland. Having Gosia with me to supply a commentary of what every statue, celebration and monument represented was a priceless education and indoctrination into her country, and that of my grandfather.
Each of my visits was full of surprises as the country began to develop following the opening up of international business and travel. The internet contributed greatly as it was blooming across the globe, enabling all of us to be in touch and understand one another better than ever before. Without the censorship of Communists the Poles learned quickly how to function, build, grow and flourish. Of all the countries from the Soviet Block, Poland was considered the safest investment with the hardest workers when various multi national companies began to expand into Eastern Europe.
There was a visit to a modern three level mall not far from Gosia’s flat. Her friend, Peter tagged along with us to enjoy a hamburger with an American woman in an American styled restaurant which featured Coca Cola. (I think they assume we drink it with every meal). It was astounding to me as I compared my first visit to this one. In the 70’s people stood in line in the street to buy a few apples. Store shelves were empty and people treated toilet paper like it was a luxury. This mall was as well stocked as any mall in America.
