Ahhhh, Krakow !
Krakow is magical…
It is ancient - Beautiful - Entertaining - Educational - Fun - Original
The first time I was in Krakow, I was intent on my mission to find my family’s village and determined not to be distracted by a lot of sight seeing as a tourist. My husband and daughter were with me and my fabulous friend and translator from Warsaw, Gosia, was patiently guiding us through town after town as we investigated town hall records, libraries, phone books, and priests’ record books. There was no trace of the family name in any of the towns mentioned in family notes. My focus was rigidly fixed on my mission.
I had made arrangements to meet another guide/translator from Krakow, Joanna, who was investigating files at the Jagellonian University and other major depositories in Krakow to see if she could find any trace of my family.
Joanna and Gosia insisted we take a little time to enjoy a few of the highlights of Krakow, and so we toured Wawel Castle, the Cloth Market, we drank wine at a cafe in Kazmierz, and made a quick pass through Florianska Street past the medeival gate, and into stunning St. Mary’s church on the square. All of it was beautiful and I tried to absorb the history and information our guides were pumping into us … several hundred years being a bit too much to absorb in a day. Thankfully I had the opportunity to return several times to explore Krakow in more detail, but the experience helped me understand the way it is for most visitors who do whirlwind tours of several cities in a week and then go home.
One of my memories from that visit was of a store that was located on the square a few doors away from St. Mary’s church. It may still be there. Newspapers and magazines from all over the world were sold there. You could buy all sorts of things in numerous departments on several floors. We used the tiny old elevator with iron gate that expanded closed to reach an upper floor where there was a counter to buy time on one of several computers on a counter in a narrow alcove off the main room. Several Zlotys bought you 20 minutes of time on the computer and you waited if there were others ahead of you. It was a popular spot as there were only two “Internet Cafes” in Krakow at that time. We relied on locals to give us the location of these Internet Cafes in several cities. They were rare because computers were very new to Poland and it was before the advent of lap tops, smart phones, and computers in every home. It was September 2001 and we had just learned of the New York Twin Towers incident while we were in Warsaw. Unsure when we would be allowed to fly home, we were anxious to touch base with family and friends at home to stay up on the news. We lived in a bubble of Polish culture, language and beauty where the horrors in the US seemed unreal and so far away.
If you get to Krakow in the spring or summer you are likely to see the picturesque horse drawn carriages carrying a bride and groom around the square. They are sometimes applauded or waved at as they pass. It seems to be a special addition to the wedding celebration.
After dark…
At night the carriages are lit from underneath. The horses are always adorned with flowers, plumes, tassles or silver jewelry, of sorts. Their presence on the square is a joy to the photographers as they stand in line like a taxi cab line waiting for passengers to hire them for a tour. The driver does not give descriptions of what you are riding past but it’s all fascinating and beautiful, so just enjoy the ride. You’ll see Rennasaince, Baroque and Gothic architecture, often large sculpture exhibits, international travelers, and every vista is a delight.
“The Historic Centre of Kraków, the former capital of Poland, is situated at the foot of the Royal Wawel Castle. The 13th-century merchants' town has Europe's largest market square and numerous historical houses, palaces and churches with their magnificent interiors.”
This special place has been acknowledged on the WORLD HERITAGE LIST - UNESCO
There is a folk tale about the DRAGON at Wawel Castle, and you see copper dragons on the drain pipes spewing water in the rain. Of course it rained the day we were there.
Wawel Castle sits on a hill above the Vistula River and portions of the complex of buildings can be traced back to 970 AD but it has developed over centuries and the architecture is stunning.
There are many things to see and do around the massive old town square. Often I see huge sculptures displayed … perhaps a competition? I’ve always been fascinated with the enormous banners they hang down the side of a multi story building. I’ve seen this in several cities… Lipton Tea is one advertisement, but there are other slogans and promotions that I don’t understand. It’s the size of the banners that seems astounding.
Gosia and I practice the fine art of hanging out in every good coffee cafe we can find. There are many around Krakow square. ~ There are also many interesting and wonderful restaurants which have become more varied over the years.
Favorite Cafe
This charming cafe, outfitted in handsome woodwork, glass cabinets, victorian furniture, and painted freize around the top of the walls feels like an old Austrian cafe, and serves the best Apple Struedel along with great cappuccino. I’ll be so disappointed if it isn’t there when I go back. It’s been a regular stop on each of my trips and I am never disappointed. It’s a tiny place wedged among the shops on the square just a few doors from Florianska Street. I think that is the northeast corner of the square.
And for all the times I’ve visited, I cannot remember the name of it.
