Kazimierz

Kazimierz, the Jewish District of Krakow, is next to Wawel Castle on one side, while the historic Cloth Market Square is on the other side of the castle. This is a key point, because it is the reason the Jewish District survived WWII. When the Germans invaded Poland, they took over the castle which gave them a grand headquarters. Because it was their headquarters, there was no bombing in the immediate vicinity. Hence, the grand square and the Kazimierz District survived untouched by war. Rare to find an entire Jewish District completely in tact with Synagogues, restaurants, homes, business buildings and cemetery.

Over the years of my visits to Krakow and Kazimierz I’ve seen amazing changes, especially since the dissolution of the Soviet Union. Some families have reclaimed their property and money has funneled in to do massive amounts of restoration. Although nothing was destroyed, the buildings were never cared for throughout the period of Communist rule. Some of the Synagogues were used for storage warehouses. People were not allowed to live in or do business in the surrounding buildings. That dormancy for so many years, left its mark in neglect. Now each time I visit I see more buildings with a fresh face and I know it has taken millions of dollars to accomplish all that work. Look closely at the difference in buildings as you will see before and after versions standing side by side. Some buildings have a combination of restored windows and inaccurate windows in a building which is slowly being brought back to its original style. You can see the Jewish stars built into the facade of many of the houses.

Kazimierz has become an important stop

for tourists and there is signage to direct

you around the streets and explain what

various buildings are. I’m forever telling the

story of this special place, particularly to

my Jewish friends who would seldom find

an opportunity to see an in-tact

neighborhood complete with the oldest

Synagogue in Poland.

Alta Shulone

“one of the most precious landmarks of Jewish architecture in Europe”

.

Photo courtesy of: https://muzeumkrakowa.pl/oddzialy/stara-synagoga (see for more history/info)

“The Old Synagogue (Polish: Synagoga Stara) is an Orthodox Jewish synagogue situated in the Kazimierz district of Kraków, Poland. In Yiddish it was referred to as the Alta Shul. It is the oldest synagogue[1] building still standing in Poland, and one of the most precious landmarks of Jewish architecture in Europe. Until the German invasion of Poland in 1939, it was one of the most important synagogues in the city as well as the main religious, social, and organizational centre of the Kraków Jewish community.[2]

The Synagogue was built in 1407 or 1492; the date of building varies with several sources. The original building was rebuilt in 1570 under the watchful eye of an Italian architect Mateo Gucci. The rebuilding included the attic wall with loopholes, windows placed far above ground level, and thick, masonry walls with heavy buttressing to withstand siege, all features borrowed from military architecture.[3] There was further reconstruction work in 1904 and in 1913.[4] The Old Synagogue is a rare, surviving example of a Polish fortress synagogue.[3] In 1794 General Tadeusz Kościuszko spoke from the synagogue to gain the Jewish support in the Kościuszko Uprising. A plaque in the entrance hall commemorates this event:”

Kazimierz III the Great,

“son of Ladislaus the Short and Jadwiga of Kalisz, was the last Polish king from the Piast dynasty.

Kazimierz inherited a kingdom weakened by war and made it prosperous and wealthy. He reformed the Polish army and doubled the size of the kingdom. He reformed the judicial system and introduced a legal code, gaining the title "the Polish Justinian".[3] Kazimierz built extensively and founded the Jagiellonian University (back then simply called the University of Krakow),[4] the oldest Polish university and one of the oldest in the world. He also confirmed privileges and protections previously granted to Jews and encouraged them to settle in Poland in great numbers.[5]”

from Wikipedia

Fun Stuff in Kazimierz

Gosia and I always make a stop at the Four Shops Cafe. Originally there were four small shops in a row; one a carpenter, one a grocery store, a small lounge and a haberdashery. Restorationists kept the façade of the building, removed interior walls to create an open space, and left the tools of the trade in place. When you go in for a glass of wine, you might be seated at a sewing machine. We often sit beside the wall with musical instruments hanging on it. We’ve had wonderful Borsch on a cold day or a cappuccino on another visit. It’s a sweet little place - photogenic and always pleasant staff. Notice the stove that provides heat and is typical in many buildings. They vary in shape, size and color. Very decorative and cozy.

Ariel is a more formal restaurant with a menu to match its authentic decor. I don’t know if it’s kosher. Live music is enjoyed some evenings. A solemn looking man has always been at the door where you pay your check and buy post cards or little souvenirs. I have a small wooden carving that helps me remember the experience.

On one of my trips I stayed for three weeks so Gosia and I were able to wander and poke more than we would usually have time for. We explored the less popular streets in Kazimierz where we found a string of antique shops. There I learned that I couldn’t buy certain items because there are laws prohibiting them from leaving the country. So much has been lost to wars and invasions, I can’t say I blame them for trying to retain what is left of their material culture. I was admiring an old wooden trunk when the dealer spoke to Gosia about this restriction. However I was allowed to buy an old handmade vest which is probably from the 1800’s.

We came upon a little gallery that specialized in what they call “naive” art. I would call them “primitives”, but it’s basically folk art created by locals. Of course the Poles are known for their wood carving skills, but there was a chandelier I’ve never forgotten… should have bought it regardless of the bother and expense. They use paper for those delicate designs which are very popular at Christmas time.

We saw a farmer’s market on one of our visits. Apparantly some of the homes and apartments are occupied and re-settled.

All sorts of changes and things to discover in Kazimierz each time you visit. Be sure you spend at least a little time there if you visit Krakow. It really is a special district which is extremely rare in today’s world.

Hopefully there will always be a Kazimierz… and an independant Poland.